1) weigh the fibre in grams (e.g. wool, silk, linen, hemp, etc) - in our case it was 100% wool yarn
2) choose a mordant and measure out appropriate weight in grams (e.g. we used alum) - the weight of the wool divided by 12 = weight of alum
3) choose an assist and measure out in grams (e.g. we used washing soda/soda ash/sodium carbonate, which can be found in the laundry section of the grocery store) - the weight of the wool divided by 37 = weight of assist
4) record this recipe in a record book if you wish to get similar results next time
5) add mordant and assist to the pot of boiling water (we used a stainless steel pot, not copper as this acts as a mordant and will change the final colour)
6) add wool to the pot of boiling water
7) add dye agent to the pot of boiling water (we used rhubarb leaves, as many as we could fit into the pot - other dye agents could be measured out more accurately in grams - usually using 100-200% more weight than the fibre to get a strong enough intensity)
8) choose a modifier - optional - by adding a modifier you will again create variations in the dye colour (e.g. vinegar brings the shades into the red spectrum; washing soda brings the shades into the blue spectrum; iron darkens the shade)
9) vegetable fibres like linen, hemp or cotton have cellulose so need tannic acid to help break down fibres so colour will take (e.g. use black tea or oak leaves added to the dye bath)
10) choose a fixative like salt to help colour to last
11) let fibre steep in dye bath for desired length of time (overnight, or longer)
12) strain, cool, then rinse and hang dry or spin dry (in salad spinner, or laundry spin cycle for larger pieces)
